Formulating for psoriasis — why it needed a different balance

When we started working on a balm for psoriasis-prone skin, the first thing we did was go back to what we already knew worked: our calendula and lavender infusions, our plant butters, our beeswax.

The second thing we did was take most of the beeswax back out.

The bum balm works because it stays on the skin — firm, occlusive, visible at the next nappy change. That staying power comes largely from beeswax at 22% of the formula. It's a real physical barrier, and that's exactly what nappy skin needs.

Psoriasis skin needs something different. It needs to absorb. Plaques are already creating a physical barrier of their own — thickened, hardened skin that needs something to get underneath it and soften it, not something to sit on top and add another layer. A balm that seals everything in can make that worse, not better.

So we dropped the beeswax to 8%. Just enough to give the balm a little structure in the jar, and a very light protective layer on the skin — but not enough to seal. We increased the oils significantly: more avocado for slip and easy spreading, coconut oil for glide, the same botanical infusions for their gentle botanical character. The butters are still there, but shea takes the lead over mango because it's softer and absorbs more readily.

The result is a balm that melts almost immediately on contact, spreads without drag across sensitive skin, and sinks in rather than sitting on top. It still has a presence — it's not a lightweight oil — but the priority is penetration and comfort rather than barrier strength.

Same kitchen. Same infusions. Same care. A completely different job.